Some would call it global warming, some may call it Deja Vue, or some may simply say it was the weather gods repeating the same weather we had for the 2023 regatta. Fortunately, we had a skilled Professional Race Team that managed to get the two scheduled windward – leeward – windward races off after a two-hour postponement due to fickle winds swinging throughout the northern quadrant.
Race number one was a shifty event with winds coming and going in an erratic manner. Coupled with a flooding tide the fleet had to contend with on the weather leg, getting to the weather mark was much like spinning a roulette wheel. Positions changed throughout the race with some boats barely able to squeeze by the weather mark without being swept into it from the strong tide. In the end, wizard Bob Catani and his Bromasole took first place, with Max Sherman and his Artemis squeezing out second, and Bob Rude’s Oasis wrapping up the third-place finish.
Exhausting skippers and crews drifted around between races while the race committee got set up for a 90-degree wind shift and winds building to over 15 knots. Once the race got underway, three boats reached the weather mark right off the bat. On the downwind leg, Oasis overtook Bromasole and held on to round the leeward mark first and held on to win Race 2 by two seconds. It was a real nailbiter.
After the racing, everyone dragged their weary bodies back to the Bristol Yacht Club for pizzas, beers, and prizes. It typified what yacht racing is all about. Lots of stories, comparing notes, food and drink, and, of course, the awards ceremony.
Commodore Dom Messerli handed out the trophies to the day’s winners. Lots of smiles and good fellowship ensued. That’s what makes the Sea Sprite class such a great group. We expect the fleet to grow by at least two or three boats for next year. 2025 is just around the corner. For now, though, everyone is preparing for our fall extravaganza…the annual Race Around Hog Island, scheduled for September 14. Buy a boat. Be part of our one-design party! Or, bring your own boat and watch the excitement!
An honest to goodness yacht, the Sea Sprite 23 offers classic good looks and big boat stability at a manageable size.
The race began auspiciously on Saturday, August 11. BBC Radio’s shipping forecast was predicting moderate conditions—southwesterly winds Force 4 to 5, increasing to perhaps Force 7 for a time. By August 13 gusts were reported at Force 7—perhaps rising to Force 8.
Over the next 24 hours conditions deteriorated until many of the 306 competing yachts were subjected to nightmarish conditions that one contestant described as “a great fury”—force 11 (56-63 kts) gusts and gargantuan seas. By the time the monster had passed 69 boats were out of the race—24 lost or abandoned—and 19 sailors had lost their lives.
An interesting footnote to the horrific events of the infamous 1979 Fastnet is that as the racing fleet fought for survival, a full-keeled cruising boat, an Alberg 35, was bobbing along nearby—lying ahull—her crew below drinking and playing cards. When the storm had abated to their satisfaction they hoisted sail and continued to England without incident.
This anecdote is just one of many that emphasize the sea-keeping abilities of the designs of Carl Alberg (1900-1986). Most Alberg boats are nearly the antithesis of modern offshore racing boats. Instead of light, beamy hulls with fin keels, Alberg boats almost always featured long, full, heavy keels, relatively narrow beam, and modest freeboard.
Even his smallest designs have the characteristic “Alberg look,” and are acknowledged as capable for their size. In our review of his 18′ 6″ Cape Dory Typhoon (Issue #8), owners praise the boat’s demeanor in strong wind and waves.
A somewhat larger Alberg boat was one of his most popular—the 23-foot Sea Sprite.
Like most designs with a long production run, Sea Sprite 23 molds have traveled some. Originally produced in 1958 by the American Boat Building company of East Greenwich, Rhode Island, Sea Sprite production moved briefly to the Wickford Shipyard, then on to Sailstar, the Bristol Boat Company, and finally to Clark E. Ryder, until his company closed its doors in 1986. An approximate total of 534 boats was produced.
Over the years the Sea Sprite earned its own reputation for seaworthiness. Recently deceased small-boat sailor, Robert Gainer, actually sailed his 23 across the Atlantic (without a windvane, outboard or electrical system). He wrote in an online forum, “She is small and can survive anything, and I mean anything. You would cringe if you knew some of the things I did to my first Sea Sprite while learning to sail.” He called her the “best balanced boat” he’d ever sailed.
Essentially, two types of Sea Sprites were produced: Daysailors and Weekenders. The beefier Weekender features a self-bailing cockpit, molded fiberglass seats, a companionway with stairs below, and two sets of lower shrouds. The Daysailer, which is very similar to Alberg’s Pearson Ensign, has wooden seats, simple cabin doors, single lowers, and she doesn’t have the self-bailing cockpit.
We got a chance to test sail an excellent 1983 Weekender example with owner, Jan Nicolaisen.
PERFORMANCE:
“Fast enough. We don’t race (at least not formally) and when you look as good as a Sea Sprite does under sail, there is no need to worry about being the fastest out there —although she is much of the time!” Bly Hartley, 1973 Ariel
“Especially in a moderate breeze with relatively calm waters, the boat seems to defy its relatively short waterline length. I’ve sailed on other Alberg boats where it seems like the designer had to compromise a bit too much towards making the boats comfortable, but in the case of the Sea Sprite, I think he got it just right.” Nathan Burgess, 1964 Pelican.
“Not a good light air boat, especially off the wind.” John Lemon, Kinglet1975
“We have to be realistic, she’s not a fin keel boat, and the sheeting angles are not as tight as a rig that has the shrouds attached inboard of the deck/hull joint. That said, I optimized the sheeting angles by placing my jib sheet tracks as close to the 10 degrees angle off centerline, recommended in ‘Skene’s Elements of Yacht Design.’ Because of the cabin trunk being in the way, I managed about 11.5-12 degrees. When using a 110 percent jib I estimate I’ve optimized my tacking angle to well under 90 degrees total for my boat. I suspect a ‘standard’ boat will be significantly outside of 90 degrees.” Dejan Radeka 1974 FIREFLY
After rowing out to where Jan and son Bjorn had left their Sea Sprite, we raised anchor, hoisted the main, unfurled the headsail and sailed away in the light air. While she’s not a “light air” boat, the Sea Sprite acquitted herself well and was able to make steady progress, tacks assisted by the momentum of her 1475 pounds of ballast. That some owners sail without motors offers additional evidence of her good handling.
Once we’d reached the more open waters of the bay and 5 to 10 knots funneling through the islands, the boat really came alive. We moved along briskly and were able to point well. The elegant ends of the 23 meant our waterline was increasing right along with the wind speed. Owners report regularly sneaking up on 30-footers, especially in moderate breezes.
With her fairly narrow beam it probably shouldn’t have surprised us when the Sea Sprite heeled some 20º or more before settling down. While this initial tenderness is no reflection on her ultimate stability, which is considered exceptional, we were reminded that sailing at a significant heel is less comfortable and more tiring, when most tasks need to be accomplished at some awkward angle.
Our review boat exhibited slightly excessive weather helm but was responsive and manageable. We’re quite sure the weather helm was the result of sails, rig tuning or some other anomaly, as Sea Sprite helm balance is generally regarded as exceptional.
With 247 square feet of sail area the Sprite has a PHRF of around 270—about the same as a Catalina 22.
A few of the oldest Sea Sprite 23s apparently had inboard engines, but most have a motor well on the centerline just abaft the tiller and through-hull rudder post. The well comes with the usual compromises (ventilation concerns, propeller drag, etc.) but for a cruising boat we still prefer the well to an outboard bracket. Performance under outboard power in any kind of a sea is said to be marginal.
Our test boat had a 6-hp motor and it was clear some modification to the well cover was necessary to make room. Owners typically employ 4-6 hp motors.
LOA 22’6” • LWL 16’3” • Beam 7’ • Draft 3’ • Displ. 3350 lb • Sail Area 247 sq ft
TRAILERING AND LAUNCHING:
“Definitely not a trailersailer but we do step the mast ourselves with a gallows system. The deck stepped mast forward of the coach house does not lend itself to a tabernacle system. Our Typhoon was far easier to rig.”Bly Hartley, 1973 Ariel
“Most of the boats do not have a tabernacle on the mast, so it is generally necessary to use a crane to step it, although I have seen some who have fabricated a tabernacle on their mast to ease in raising and lowering. … Basically, launching and rigging the boat can be done by yourself, but for most people it falls a little too far into the category of a pain and we are willing to cough up the money to have someone else do it.” Nathan Burgess, 1964 Pelican
At 3350 pounds, with a 3-foot draft, the Sea Sprite isn’t the kind of boat you tow to the lake for a daysail. She’s a small yacht that is best trailered at the beginning and end of the season. But that doesn’t mean her being trailerable isn’t an advantage. She can be pulled out for maintenance, stored away from the water easily, and she is just light and shallow enough to be manageable at a deep ramp.
Mast raising and rigging was described by one owner as “not particularly easy.” Amongst the owners we interviewed were some who require yard assistance to raise and rig, and a few who manage the tasks themselves. The do-it-themselves owners employ advantages like custom tabernacles and mast raising systems.
SEAWORTHINESS:
“The boat continues to surprise me in heavy air. The key is to put a reef in the main above 20 knots. I recently sailed her on a three hour upwind slog in 20-25 knots and 5 foot swell, about a 15 nautical mile run. I was wet but she performed beautifully.” Dejan Radeka 1974 FIREFLY
“Excellent heavy weather boat. Good in heavy seas.” Robert M. Reed, 1982 Sea Dancer.
Few boats her size would be considered more capable than the rugged Sea Sprite. In addition to her deep keel and substantial ballast (44% of her displacement ), the Weekender has a self-bailing cockpit of modest size, low windage, a protected rudder mounted to the aft end of the keel, and mostly stout construction with high quality materials.
One potential trade-off is that her low cabin and low freeboard makes her wet in a seaway and she can ship some over the 10″ coamings when heeled past 30º. We were also dismayed to discover the port cockpit locker opens directly onto the quarterberth and the inside of the boat.
Several owners suggested the Sea Sprite might need to take a reef somewhat before comparable boats, but they were also unanimous in describing the 23 as forgiving and capable. One owner went so far as to say, “You really can’t get yourself in any trouble with this boat.”
The 6’3″ x 5′ 3″ cockpit has two 1.5″ cockpit drains, a 12″ deep footwell plus an additional 3.5″ sill at the 16-inch wide bridge deck.
There are nice foot-wide sidedecks, and an 18″ foredeck hatch for working forward in bouncy weather.
“I am 6′ 1″, and I can’t really fit in the V-berth lengthwise in the way it was designed. I can, however, sleep down the center of the v-berth, or sleep in the quarter berth, which is surprisingly comfortable, although it does take some effort to get in and out of.” Nathan Burgess, 1964 Pelican
“I’m perfectly comfortable in the V-berth at 5′ 6″. It doesn’t bother me that I cannot sit up. My husband does not like to sleep in the V-berth. The quarterberth is marginally better since you can sit up. The second quarterberth is usually full of gear so I would say you could sleep three. There is a Porta-Potti with a dedicated locker in the notch of the V-berth. You do have to put in the companionway drop boards or something if you want privacy. We use a single burner butane stove on the bridgedeck. Satisfactory enough for breakfast. It would get old pretty quick if the weather was bad.” Bly Hartley, 1973 Ariel
When a designer tries for a good sea boat, with a low profile, low freeboard, narrow beam and fair sized cockpit, something has to give—and usually it’s accommodations.
The Sea Sprite actually does a fair job of using what space is available. There’s just enough sitting headroom on the forward end of the quarterberths, and the berths themselves are two feet wide and 6′ 3″ long—most of that under the cockpit.
Two opposing cabinets are just forward—to port an insulated ice box, and to starboard a sink with 10-gallon tank below.
Farther forward is the V-berth, which has a filler board over a molded liner recess designed for the portable head. The V-berth is six feet wide by 6′ 3″—which taller sailors will define as barely adequate or worse. Additionally, headroom over berths is minimal and would have the potential to be claustrophobic were it not for the smoked forward hatch and two opening ports.
Decent stowage is available under berths and atop a shelf around the V-berth. Most lockers lead to the bilge.
Jan, who cruises the San Juan and Gulf Islands for months at a time, has added monkey hammocks above the V-berth and plans to make additional space by going to a smaller battery.
“If you’re not terribly set on having a modern ‘big’ battery, then it would make sense to do as the builder intended: Get a wheelchair sized battery and put it in the dedicated small battery compartment directly under the cabin sole (accessed by a cutout in the teak/holly floorboard).” Jan says this frees up the best stowage locker in the boat—the cavernous space under the companionway ladder. “Build a small shelf to close off the bilge and this is the easiest to access, best placed, most sizable locker in the boat. As of now, and I suspect this is the case with most Ryder-built boats, a previous owner has ‘upgraded’ to a bigger battery and moved it here. Returning to the original setup with a wheelchair battery is project number one for the 2011 season.”
The cockpit is comfortable for two persons, but even though a few owners spoke of having five adults aboard on a daysail, with an inboard tiller, motor well, and narrow beam, we think the cockpit would become cramped quickly.
QUALITY:
“These are 60s/70s era fiberglass boats and they’re built like tanks. Everything was overbuilt….You have to watch for deck delamination under poorly bedded deck hardware. The decks are balsa cored, and all of these boats are old now, so you will find delaminated deck areas. The lazarette decks are notoriously bad because of the way they cut the access hatches for the outboard well. … Also, surprisingly, they did not lay-up solid glass under the mast step area. My boat had balsa there too, which was completely soaked and delaminated when I bought her. I’ve noticed some flex in the deck in the mast step area when sailing hard. I’m planning a mast compression strut in the cabin for this next off-season project, to stiffen her up.” Dejan Radeka, 1974 FIREFLY
It seemed that everywhere we looked on the 23 we found first class quality and construction. Clearly she was built to last—hand laid fiberglass hull, encapsulated lead ballast, heavy fiberglass, and solid fittings.
The inward flange hull-to-deck joint was apparently mechanically fastened with stainless screws and bonded with 3M 5200, but the interior with liner is so well finished we couldn’t really see the joint. That didn’t bother us so much, but we did wish the chainplates were visible for inspection. Unfortunately they too are buried behind the liner.
Another area we’d want carefully surveyed before purchase are the decks, which were built with balsa coring on later models. Balsa makes the decks much stiffer without adding appreciably to weight, but it’s also susceptible to rot if water has been allowed to penetrate through, say, an improperly bedded fitting. The lazarette decks are apparently the most common trouble spot.
If we were buying a Sea Sprite we might just opt for an older model with solid fiberglass decks—in spite of the weight penalty.
The only other area of concern we heard about was the potential for rot and failure in the cross beam supporting the deck-stepped mast. Sometimes this manifests itself as flex and delamination on deck.
The review boat’s stout rig featured upper and lower shrouds, spreaders, and diamonds—upper spreaders that help stiffen the upper mast.
COMPROMISES:
“Only adequate light air performance, and minimum accommodations. The boat is mostly a daysailer, and unless I wanted to use it for extensive cruising (which I don’t), it is beautifully built and a pleasure to sail. …” Robert M. Reed, 1982 Sea Dancer.
Most owners mentioned the Sprite’s modest accommodations as the primary compromise. As owner, John Lemon says, “It is a boat you really want to sail. If you are looking for comfort or a spacious cabin, a Sea Sprite is not for you.”
A few owners suggested speed or performance was a compromise, but mostly one they willingly exchange for peace of mind in rougher conditions.
MODIFICATIONS:
Most owners hadn’t done much in the way of modifying their 23, suggesting she came well equipped. However the mods owners elected to make were major chores. Several owners cut through the liner to get at and replace the aforementioned original chainplates, which one owner suggested are prone to breakage.
Owner Dejan Redaka did a total refit of his Wickford Shipyard 1974 model. He replaced all mast hardware, added a tabernacle, completely rebuilt the lazarette deck, added a new custom hatch, converted the outboard well to a lazarette stowage locker, replaced chainplates, reinforced hull-to-deck joint around chainplates, installed new toe rails, custom built a new teak stemhead, and much more. He also installed lifelines and pulpits. He says he was able to source a J22 bow pulpit and a J24 stern pulpit for much less than custom, and both worked well.
VALUE:
“Raise the sails, drop the mooring pennant and go! I can blast around a crowded mooring area with ease. The boat handles great, even though she has a full keel. You can sail her dead downwind at hull speed, put the helm down hard into a 180 and she’ll stop in a boat length. It’s the perfect mooring pick up trick when I’m singlehanding; I can just walk up to the bow and grab the stick. People sitting in cockpits of bigger boats look on with envy.” Dejan Radeka, 1974 FIREFLY
We found examples of Sea Sprite 23s on the used market from $2,000 to more than $20,000. That’s appropriate as boats this age can be in such disparate states of repair—and some of the potential repairs and upgrades can be quite costly.
One thing is for sure, Sea Sprites have a loyal following and are adored by their owners, so they tend to hold their value fairly well. A well-rounded design, the 23 makes a good daysailer, cruiser and even club racer. No matter how she’s used she’s bound to draw admiring glances. •SCA•
PAINTING YOUR SEA SPRITE…LET’S GET READY FOR SUMMER
Bob Rude – Sea Sprite 785 – Oasis
I’ve had a number of local sailors comment on how much they love the new paint job I have on my Sea Sprite. If you want to do the job yourself, here are some tips and lessons I learned from doing this during the spring of 2023. This post in its entirety can be found in “Technical” for posterity as well as here.
First, realize that this isn’t going to be as fancy as having a professional spray paint your boat with Awlgrip. But, it’s going to be about 95% as good and a heck of a lot cheaper. From 5-10 feet away, it’ll be hard to tell you didn’t have a professional spray job.
Here’s a list of the materials you’ll need to get started.
MATERIALS
An orbital disc sander with a built-in bag to gather the sanding dust (I used a 5” electric Rigid model from Home Depot – $65.00)
Packets of Diablo sanding discs having the following grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 220). Buy the packets that have roughly 20 discs per packet. ($10.-$20 per packet)
Foam brushes – 1”, 2”, 3” width. Buy a box of each. Available online from Jamestown Distributors. Cost about $20 per box. Each box has approximately 20 brushes. Throw away after using. Good for varnishing, too).
6” foam rollers, pan, and handle for the roller. Only use foam rollers if you want a nice final finish! DO NOT USE KNAP ROLLERS! Home Depot or Jamestown Distributors.
Epiphane Polyurethane Top Side Paint (Two Part) – $70 per quart. You pick your color. You’ll need at least two quarts. (Defender Industries – Order on-line once you’ve checked out their color chart)
Epiphane Two Part Semi-gloss polyurethane primer. Choose white or grey, depending upon your boat’s final color. Two quarts at around $50 per quart. Defender Industries
Flexible sandpaper blocks of various grits – Home Depot
Tyveck suits and a good respirator. Clear eye protection is also a good idea.
Plastic mixing pots for mixing the two-part paints – Jamestown Distributors. Price varies by size. Sold in packs of 5.
Now that you have all your materials, you’re ready to get into it. You’re going to develop some new muscles from holding the sander against the hull. Be patient.
I would recommend beginning the sanding on the stern of the boat. Start out with the 80 grit sandpaper. Starting at the stern will give you a good idea of how you’ll need to transition through the different grits of sandpaper to eventually end up using the 220 grit. Also, if you make a mistake on the reverse transom, it won’t be as visible as if you’ve done it at the bow of the boat. Think of the transom as your “practice area.”
Your first pass of the hull with the 80 grit will knock down some of the high spots and maybe eliminate some of the scratches and dings you’ve incurred over the past few seasons.
The project begins…The original green gelcoat that had been painted over with a cheap one-part green paint. This photo was taken after the first sanding with 80 grit sandpaper.
Don’t be surprised if your hull looks “splotchy.” Notice how one of the photographs of my early sanding appears. The hull looks like a pinto animal. You may need to use a fairing compound if you have some big dings. You can hose your boat down with a garden hose to remove some of the dust collected from the sanding.
The old paint as been completely sanded off using each of the sandpaper grits. This is what the hull looks like. Notice there are still some minor hull irregularities probably caused by original hull mold. Try to get the hull faired as smooth as possible
I hope you’re not exhausted from these repeated sandings. You’ve only accomplished the first step in getting the hull prepped for the primer. From this point on, you want to repeat the sanding with successive finer grit sandpaper. Don’t be afraid to change the sandpaper as you go along. Let the newly affixed pad do the work of leveling the hull. After completely doing the hull with all the different grades, you’ll be ready to think about painting.
At this point, you should mix a solution of 75% water and 25 % alcohol in a bucket of water. Using a wet rag, wring the water from the rag and gently wipe the hull down, wringing the rag out frequently will remove any dust and impurities that may have occurred.
While you can sand the boat in sunlight or shade, when it comes time to paint, you need to be careful not to apply primer or paint in direct sunlight during the heat of the day. It’s better to paint when the hull is in the shade or earlier in the day. If that means you’ll only be able to do half of the hull, so be it. The worst case scenario is trying to roll on primer or paint on a hot hull. The paint will dry as soon as you touch the roller to the fiberglass and it will inhibit the slow drying of the paint that you need in order to get the paint to level out and create a smooth surface and a nice shine.
I’ve included a photo of my primed hull. You’ll need to put two coats of primer on with a 220 grit sanding between coats. Again, wipe the hull with the water/alcohol mixture. Primer comes in two colors. Use gray primer for darker final colored paint or white primer for lighter colored paints. Allow the primer to dry thoroughly and then do a final 220 grit sanding and clean up. You’re getting closer to apply the paint! Finally.
Once the second coat of primer has dried and been sanded, wipe it down and get ready for the first of two coats of paint. Let the hull dry for a day or two. Here are some additional tips. I needed plenty of tips. My painting coach is shown above giving me some pointers.
I suggest you start the painting by experimenting with your rolling skills by first painting the underside of the transom down near the rudder post. You are bound to make a few rookie mistakes with the roller. Make those mistakes out of sight.
I’ve seen so many sailors get jacked about putting the final touches on their boat by painting the bow sections first. Invariably, they glop the paint on too thick and the finished product has roller marks or runny paint right where you don’t want anyone to see it…on the bow. Be patient. Attack under the stern first. You’ll be glad you did. If you feel really frisky, you might move to the transom as your second painting endeavor. Once you’ve master the art of using the roller with a light touch, you can move on to the port/starboard sides of the boat. This photo shows my professional painting coach giving me a lesson.
There’s a real knack to using a roller. Always roll from a point of existing paint to the section that hasn’t been painted. As you finish the rolling stroke, use a flick of the wrist to get the roller to leave the hull with a light touch.
Someone may tell you to use a paintbrush to “tip” the paint. I’ve painted two boats without tipping and the boats turned out beautiful. I’ve never had success with tipping. You choose your poison. For me, I’m sticking with the foam roller…no brushing.
There may be sections of you boat where you will want to use a foam brush for detail work. You may decide to mask off the toe rail before priming or painting. If so, take one of the narrow foam brushes and use it for edging. Then run the foam roller up to the section you’ve just painted. Do the edging as the same pace you are rolling. That way the paint can blend in while it’s still wet.
Once your hull has the first coat of paint, use the 220 grit sandpaper and gently go over the dried painted hull. By now you should be a master sander. Wipe the hull down with the water/alcohol mixture and let it thoroughly dry. Then roll on the final coat of paint. If you’ve done all the prep work, you should have a bright smooth hull.
In retrospect, I would estimate that 90% of the work is the prepping the hull for the final two coats of paint. It will be hard to persevere through all the sanding but this is all the foundation for ending up with a beautiful boat. Take your time. You’ll be happy with the end result. Don’t rush and make a mess out of a beautiful Alberg-designed day sailor.
Here are some photos of the final project. I’ve added a gold-leaf cove strip to set off the deep read color of the hull. I’ve applied two coats of the Epiphane Dark Red two-part polyurethane topside paint.
A second coat of black Interlux CSC bottom paint is still needed. I also ended up painting a new waterline with Epiphanes water line paint. This can be painted on with a foam brush.
The finished product is in the water and ready to go. I had a professional come and apply the gold leaf name on the transom.
Good luck to you as you restore your Sea Sprite. All the time and effort will be worth it.Edit
